It is deep night in Skopje, the capital of Macedonia, where we spend the night. This experience was so vivid that I will write a few lines. The main target of the trip this time was the Ostrog Monastery and second, the balloon fiesta, which incidentally starts tomorrow. The story of the Ostrog monastery can never be explained or shown to anyone with pictures, because this story is different.
The heart is filled with white light. It is difficult to describe in words the charge of energy I get from journeys of the heart. Every time I travel, there are an infinite number of images that appear before my eyes and do not fade from memory but the feelings stand out above everything else.
The road to the Ostrog monastery and back: We left at 5:00 am to be on time for the morning liturgy, which starts at 6:00. We will have to drive a bit on a serpentine road, around six kilometers. I was advised not to drive myself, at the very least to be doubly careful, and to allow extra time. Leaving the hotel, rain is pouring. The fog is so thick, that it is impossible to see anything. Relying on our feelings, we find the door handles of the car and try to feel the roadway in the same way. The visibility is less than a meter, or rather, the visibility is as far as the light of the heart and the wish to get to the destination can shine. We are starting our way up the mountain on the switchbacks. I am driving very slowly. Having traveled 7 km in an hour, we realize that we are lost, and from time to time we lose our orientation as well. Pouring rain and thick fog are confusing us. It feels like huge spaciousness without time, as if we are a living body who breathes and feels, but without space, without time ... A light appears at the top of the mountain and gives us hope... Maybe we are not lost, maybe this is the monastery? No, there is no monastery. But there is a house. So, in the rain, at 6:00 am Baiba and Inita are walking to a house on a hill to find out where in space and the universe we are. The girls are joking that Saint Peter himself will open the gate and invite us in, but after opening the door, he will think that Mary herself came down from the sky with her companion ... Of course we cannot live without laughter and ironic humor. The girls come back and say that the man spoke only his language, but using his gestures he was able to explain that the monastery is in a different direction. We have to drive back down and go up a different mountain. Another hour and another 12 km passed. We are getting out of the car and climbing the mountain, where the silhouette of the monastery is barely visible through the fog. I recognize the monastery, which we saw on Google and on postcards in the hotel where we stayed last night. The rain continues falling, you cannot say otherwise. It pours on us with large crystal drops soaking us from head to toe. Climbing the mountain, it is impossible not to think that the truest things, the most important direction and life lessons we learn by going through difficulties. We are climbing a high steep pathway up the mountain, and with the strong force of rain we are soaking wet in a few minutes. It is cold due to rain and fog, and, by the way it is January 15th! Visiting the monastery is an absolute mystic experience, because we don't know much about religion, we don't know anything about Orthodox beliefs, rituals, etc. We were sure about only one thing- we have to go to this place. We have to find the Ostrog monastery.
A man, one of the servants from the monastery, is showing the way and we are following him. When the door opens, a small cave appears in front of us, where a room was created. The ceiling and walls of the cave are covered with frescoes. In the room there is a coffin with a covered body in it. Two Russian pastors, religious men for sure, (perhaps priests?) – are looking at us with a feeling that clearly indicates that we understand nothing about religion and that we are tourists who had brought ourselves here, in some incomprehensible way. They encourage us to kiss their crosses, and are directing us towards the coffin. We do not understand what is happening next, it is already enough that we kissed the cross in a small cave at 7:00 o’clock in the morning. It is a fact, we really don't understand anything about religion. But our feelings are telling us that everything is fine, we are here, and in front of God even a fool is a worthy person. As quickly as we got into the cave, abruptly we go out. Then on the way out, we are caught and sent up to the 2nd floor- there is a room where we can stay for free, for two nights, with bunk beds in rows. Here people can pray, meditate, spent time by themselves and be with like-minded people. The sound of crackling firewood comes from a small stove with a small door, where firewood is burning. As soon as we enter the room, hearing our language, a 40-50 year old man jumps up and is extremely happy to meet people from the Baltics. The guy, after saying his first sentence, alarms me, it is not clear what his goals are for staying here, and the cynical question arises in my head: is everything OK with this person's mental health? But it is clear- without asking we have received a guide, and the guy is ready to tell us EVERYTHING about EVERYTHING - the history of religion, the strength and superiority of the Orthodox faith over all others, the miracles of the Ostrog monastery and about St. Nicholas, who lies in a cave, hidden in a coffin and whose remains do not decompose. After completing a quick, short course in religion, we understood that we will have to return to the cave, where St. Nicholas is resting in peace, to quietly pray and think. Instructions about the ritual are given along the way. We write the names of the people who will be mentioned during the liturgy on a piece of paper, to pray for them. Papers with which you can walk inside the cave and give to the pastors, who loudly read their prayers, commemorating souls ... And a separate room where you can pray and light candles. The organization is as follows - on the one side for the living, on the other for deceased, a magical space, where ancestors are coming, reaching out and standing next to us, as if they were alive; a place without the time and space, only the universe, where you can meet your ancestors. My grandmother, from my mother’s, side immediately stands on one side, and grandmother, from my father’s side, on the other. It's a strange feeling… I know that I'm alive, and both grandmothers are dead, yet in this distant corner of the world, they are standing next to me, both holding my hands and asking me to pray for them. I feel cold, but I can’t understand- from what exactly. Maybe it’s from the fact that I am soaking wet, standing in a dark cave where candles are crackling, and water is dripping, condensed from the interaction of the cold cave and the air. Or maybe from the mystical feeling that two dead grandmothers are standing next to me, both holding my hands… The cave in the cliff is charred black from the candles... The cave where the living meets the dead, where prayers of the worlds’ crossroads are heard ... And me ... And my three companions. Although the cave is small, we are at such a distance from each other, that we can barely hear other voices and the sounds of crying. There is no sense of time, there is space, there is no time ... The most difficult thing is to answer- for how long we stayed there ... It could be an hour, it could be 20 minutes, time has disappeared. Once again, we are inside the cave with the coffin. Now we are more knowledgeable, we have sheet of paper with the names of the people we are asking to pray for. And the priests are praying for them. After listening to us, the liturgy begins. We do not speak their language, but we understand that the liturgy is about EVERYTHING, because all aspects of life are mentioned. In the cave with the remains of St. Nicholas we pass the time with liturgy, and prayers ... Again, time is undefinable. When coming out and heading to the bus, a man comes up, who takes "patronage" over us. He speaks Russian and asks to talk. The rain is falling. We are completely wet, spent indefinite hours in various small caves, prayed, cried, met our ancestors, lost sense of time, cannot even physically understand whether it is cold or just wet... Realizing that there is no church here in the classical sense, with a large room and pictures, an altar... Here are small mountain caves, where for hundreds of years the colorful frescoes have not lost their luster and the pictures are as if they were painted yesterday. It is difficult to explain how it can be… Humidity, rain, dampness ... But we understand that this is not the place for rationality, this isn’t the place to think, here you need to feel your heart, pulse, and heartbeat ... Here you need to take an elevator down to the lowest basement of yourself and see only a soul - a white soul weighing several grams.
And yes ... The man desperately is trying to follow us, and to talk ... He gets on our nerves; the sound of spoken words feels disturbing now. I don't want words now. We've already let him know twice that we want to be alone. Now, when we are ready to leave, he insists that he would like to have conversation with us, and is asking for 5 minutes. Even before he spoke, I already knew what was coming. The girls are trying hard to get rid of him. I understand that I will be tolerant until the end. I am allowing him to talk. I say goodbye to the monastery with my eyes. I understand that I will have to go down from the mountain in the rain, and I am asking the man to walk me to the gate. He follows and starts to talk about the uniqueness and strength of the Orthodox faith. I am listening, and thinking at the same time. What is this gigantic machinery- religion!? And at the same time, I understand that I will get wet to the last thread, and that I have high-heeled shoes with 12 cm heels, and I will need to walk down on the slippery stones. The only thing I really want now- is a strong man's hand that will help me walk down the slippery cliffs in high heels, and doesn’t even matter, that he talks about the religion. I grabbed him with mystical grip, leaned on him and allowed to lead me down the mountain. He is delivering a monologue, but I am too focused on the wet stones to listen carefully; I am afraid to make wrong movement and slide down with my 12 cm heels. We walked down, but I don't remember much from the religious lecture he was giving me. I thought about prayers for the ancestors up at the monastery, but least of all I thought about my private life, or about the fact, that I was afraid of relationship. And on this long walk from the mountain, I prayed. It doesn’t matter how strong I am, I wish God will send me a man with whom I can be weak. I really want that. I am not just allowing him to help me, I have a feeling that he carried me down from that mountain in his arms. His task was accomplished. He showed me the understanding that strong girls want and look for a man who will allow her to be weak, who will carry his little fool in high-heeled shoes off the mountain in his arms. Of course, this man did it believing that he was a servant of God, and his mission was to help this lost girl. Anyway, I thought about everything that happened there for a long time after that….
Completely soaked, I entered the bus and we silently rolled along the serpentine in the fog and rain. We descended from our Calvary Mountain, each of us lost in our own thoughts, experiences, and in complete silence. Of course, also not without laughter and cynicism, because at 7 o'clock in the morning the priests are asking to kiss the cross and about the coffin with the mystical remains ... The irony of this came from our minds, but it had nothing to do with the emotions we experienced there. The photo that Inita took with the road, fog, rain and completely wet Me, is the most important photo of this trip. The sincerest emotions and feelings are baked in to it. There, being a living soul, I was together- hand to hand, with two deceased souls. It was there, where I went down the mountain and realized that without a man's shoulder I would have to walk barefoot on January 15th, because I would probably break my head in high-heeled shoes... A silly girl who tries to feel life like walking in a thick fog I am getting wet walking through the crossroads of my life, and in the end, I only have one wish: a safe shoulder besides me…